Cheap Trimaran: How to Buy an Affordable Trimaran Wisely

What does a cheap trimaran cost?

Everything below is an asking price, not a sale price, taken from public listings in November 2026. Boats sell for less than they are advertised at, listings change quickly and currencies differ, so treat these as orientation, not valuation. For a model-by-model view of newer boats, see the Dragonfly price guide.

Dragonfly 800 (1986 to 1995): listings seen on The Yacht Market and Rightboat ranged from about 20,000 to 33,000 pounds in the UK, with a 1994 French example at 31,500 euros. A heavily overhauled boat in Spain was advertised at 38,500 euros.

Dragonfly 920 (1995 to 2007): asking prices were mostly between about 50,000 and 100,000 euros on sites such as Boats.com and Daily Boats. A 1998 racing version was listed at 55,000 euros, while a 2003 Extreme version asked 97,000 euros. In the UK a 1998 boat appeared at 49,500 pounds.

Dragonfly 1000 (1996 to 2010): a 1995 boat was advertised at 80,000 euros on Yachtall, and other listings sat around the same level or higher. At this size the 1000 is not cheap, but it is a lot of volume for the money.

Corsair F-24 and F-27: Practical Sailor calls the F-24 a budget-friendly taste of fast, and listings I found ran from about 19,500 pounds for a 1995 boat in England to roughly 23,500 to 26,750 US dollars in the United States. One aggregator reports F-27 asking prices between 32,000 and 39,000 dollars. Corsairs are mainly sold in the US, so check import costs if you are buying in the UK or EU.

Which older Dragonflies make sense on a budget?

The three classics share the folding Swing Wing concept, so they can use a narrower berth or be transported on the road, which keeps running costs down. Specifications below come from Dragonfly’s published model data.

The Dragonfly 800 is 8.00 m long, weighs 1,100 kg and folds to 2.50 m. It is the cheapest way into the brand and simple to maintain, but it is also the oldest and the least roomy, with 4 berths.

The Dragonfly 920 is 9.20 m, 1,600 kg, folds to 2.40 m and has 4 + 2 berths. It is the middle option, with standing headroom and, according to the model page, a large pool of spare parts and an established owner community. It is usually the best balance for a cruising family.

The Dragonfly 1000 is 10.00 m, 2,200 kg and folds to 2.95 m. You get the most interior volume per euro, but the folded beam and weight mean a larger berth, and bigger rigs, sails and engines cost more to replace.

Are other cheap trimarans worth considering?

The Corsair F-24 is the obvious alternative. Practical Sailor describes the Farrier folding system as reducing beam from 17 ft 11 in to 8 ft 2 in, with unfolding taking about two minutes according to one owner, and notes the boat has no head and limited headroom. It is a sporty trailer-sailer rather than a comfortable cruiser.

Whatever the brand, remember that cheap multihulls are old. Replacement parts, sail sizes and an active owner community decide how painful ownership is, so ask what support exists for that exact model before you pay a deposit.

What is a realistic budget?

A purchase price on its own is a trap. A more honest approach is to set a total budget and subtract an allowance for the first season. The percentages below are my planning assumptions, not published figures, so adjust them after the survey.

Worked example with labelled assumptions: you have a total of 40,000 euros. Assume you hold back 20 per cent (8,000 euros) for the first-season work, survey, insurance, berth and transport. That leaves a maximum of 32,000 euros for the boat itself, and that is the asking price you can accept before negotiating. If the survey finds more than your allowance, you either negotiate or walk away. The same maths shows why a 15,000-euro boat that needs 20,000 of work is dearer than a sound boat at 30,000.

For a fuller breakdown of annual running costs, see the cost of owning a trimaran.

Red flags that make a cheap boat expensive

Walk away, or at least price the repair, when you see any of these.

• A folding mechanism that is stiff, corroded, or does not fold fully, or beams, pivot bolts and sockets with cracks or play. On the Corsair F-24, Practical Sailor flags checking whether a known beam-skin recall and retrofit was done.
• Soft or spongy decks, delaminating sandwich panels, or moisture readings that the seller will not let a surveyor take.
• Osmosis blisters, repeated gelcoat crazing, or patchy repairs around the amas and crossbeams.
• A tired engine, an outboard that will not start cold, or a missing service history.
• Daggerboard or rudder damage; Practical Sailor notes the F-24 daggerboard is stiff enough that it may break before the hull does in a grounding, so check board and trunk.
• A seller who will not allow a survey, or who pushes you to pay a deposit before one.
• No trailer papers, no proof of ownership or an unclear registration history.
• A price far below comparable listings with no clear reason.

Hidden costs to budget for before you sail

Put a figure beside each of these before you make an offer. I have not given prices for them because they vary widely by country, yard and boat.

• Survey and sea trial, ideally by a surveyor who knows multihulls.
• Insurance: cover for older multihulls varies, so get quotes before buying.
• Berth or storage. A folding boat can use a standard berth or be stored ashore, which is often the biggest saving over the years.
• Immediate maintenance: antifouling, rigging check, engine service, and a safety kit that matches your local requirements.
• Sails, if they are tired; this can be a major cost on an older boat.
• Trailer: Practical Sailor notes the F-24 trailer was not included in the review price, so check the trailer and its papers.
• Transport to your sailing area; see sailboat transport for the options.

A five-step method for buying cheap without regrets

First, choose the model by how you will use it, not by price alone. Second, compare at least five listings of that model to understand the real range. Third, inspect the folding system, hull and engine with the used trimaran inspection checklist. Fourth, commission a survey and use its findings to negotiate. Fifth, keep your reserve intact.

You can browse current boats on 3Hulls, and a seller who lists with a full description and photographs is usually a good sign. Prices and availability move fast, so check each listing directly.