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Float enlargement 2 begun today...
So far I have cut one float apart just like last time. I have to admit, the second generation floats from Triak are much better constructed. The glass used is the same glass used in the main hull whereas the first gen just used e-glass. Much thicker. Also, they completely reinforced the main junction on the interior. They even added what looks to be a reinforcement of carbon fiber.
After cutting in half and removing some of the flange (where they joined the two halves during manufacture), I waxed the outside with mold release wax and covered with plastic wrap...I'm hoping to have fewer "OOPS" running epoxy to have to clean up.
Next step is to purchase styrofoam solid insulation from home depot. Then I will carve the hull outline into a sheet about a quarter inch. Fill the trench with epoxy and push the hull half into the hole and let set. Will keep you posted as I do this.
Also, the epoxy I used to hold the two pieces together didn't make a seal all the way around. S'OK, I don't expect that edge to seal since I'm planning on overlapping the fiberglass over that edge. I will probably try a different gluing method next time since epoxy isn't needed in that application. The float will be held together as well by a new fiberglass wrap at bow and stern and middle.
Prior to glassing, I will doubtless need to shave excess foam in places as well as fill holes to give a good surface for glassing.
I'm at the point where I am deliberating starting over or forging ahead by filling the gaps with bondo and sanding smooth.
I did cut large holes in the centers of each half of the float enlargement foam to facilitate removing water from the interior after sailing.
WoW those are huge, will they only be tall enough to reach the water or are they going to be partially submerged?
multithom wrote: Back to where I left off, have one side sanded smooth enough to be fiberglassed. It took about 2 hours of sanding with 50 grit sandpaper on the styrofoam. The groove I cut into the styrofoam will need some spot putty for fill prior to fiberglass. here are some photos.
Since you can't hike out, the Triak needs bigger floats than the manufacturer planned for if you are going to sail it in anything bigger than 10 kts. Of course, you could reef, but then you can't point because the mainsail gets less airfoil shaped as you roll it around the mast. The designer was making a paddling kayak able to sail and didn't expect too many owners to want to sail it more than they wanted to paddle. He certainly didn't expect someone like me owning one who routinely sails in 20 kts wind and 3 kt adverse current.
It doesn't change the top end of the boat. That will always be around 10 kts since the main hull is a displacement hull and would need a LOT more power to go much faster than that. What it does is give me some peace of mind while sailing so I'm not constantly worried about capsize and allows me full sail in 20 kts which lets me go about 8 kts to weather which, in turn, means I can sail upwind against the 3 kt current. The modification won't be needed by many folks.
SO far, it is an easy modification. Of course, this is the second time I am doing it so (as with most things), it is getting easier with practice. It is a shame that Thayer is no longer selling them since he could have easily offered this simple modification for folks who were more interested in sailing than paddling. Granted, it may not have been very cost effective to make two more molds for the modified floats.
I'll take photos tomorrow although you can't see much given that the fiberglass disappears when wetted out. E glass leaves a corrugated appearing surface so my plan is to cover with veil to try to smooth it a little once the veil is delivered.
So far, this second set of floats is going quite easily compared to the first and the results are much better.
I have tried cheaper filler primer but seems they don't have enough pigment to even color what your painting without many coats.